FANTASY CLOTHING DEVELOPMENT WITH EL NINO PHENOMENON AS THE SOURCE OF IDEA

The objectives of this study are twofold. The first objective is to evaluate the quality of the development of fantasy clothing with El Nino phenomenon as the source of idea. The second objective is to enrich the literature of fashion design especially in the field of fantasy clothing. The study in nature employs research and development approach with the PPE development model which consists of three stages namely planning, production, evaluation. The used instrument to collect the data is a set of questions for the assessment of fashion experts. As the result, the fashion experts assessed the produced apparel with the theme of El Nino phenomenon with full marks or 100%. This means that the final design has an extremely good rate of achievement. Another contribution contained in this study is as a module of teaching materials at the study program of family welfare education, Technical and Vocational faculties of Ganesha Education, University of Singaraja, Indonesia.


Introduction
Clothing is one of the basic needs of human life. However, the need of clothing has changed not only as a primary need but also becoming a human identity. As a lifestyle, peoples nowadays are willing to show their existence through their fashion. The terminology of clothing derives from sansekerta language called 'bhusana' which adopted to Indonesian language as called busana. In general definition, every accessory that wore from head to toe are categorized as clothing which provide comfortless or to show beauties of the user (Ernawati, 2008:23). Clothing is understood with two meanings amid the society. Clothing in the sense of connotation means as fancy or trendy apparel that always match with style and color, conformable as well as comfortable and good looking for every occasion. While clothing in denotation meaning is part of the outfit. More than that, clothing is also considered essential because it reflects the personality and sometimes social status of the users.
As mentioned earlier that the functions of clothing have shifted in many circumstances not only for daily outfit but also has aesthetic function. Numbers of source and idea that can be used as an inspiration to develop creativity in creating artistic value of clothing to produce a unique fashion trend, one of which is fantasy clothing. According to Indonesia big dictionary (2008: 403), fantasy defines as a fictional image (shade); fiction of imagination; imaginary. Fantasy clothing usually used on casual or special events, such as traditional events, carnivals/parades, religious ceremonies and often demonstrated by the models on the catwalk stage to show its existence such as Buleleng Endek Carnival (BEC), Jogja Carnival Fashion Week, Jakarta Fashion Week, and many more events in other cities.
Various forms of fantasy clothing are designed through different ideas and inspirations. During the process of its creation and development, the source of idea mostly generates from important event, tradition, cultural identity or environment (Chodijah & Wisri A.M., 1982: 172). Another interesting idea that often influence in the making of fantasy clothing is the environment or natural phenomenon. Natural phenomenon is a nonartificial circumstance which may occur naturally, anytime and anywhere. Rain, gravity, or plant's photosynthesis are among the examples of natural phenomenon. There is also phenomenon that could be harm and endanger for human life such as volcanic eruption, tsunami, and earthquake. In association with the theme, these natural phenomena could also be the source of idea in the creation and development of fantasy clothing with ISSN: 00333077 5391 www.psychologyandeducation.net the purposes to express thought, attract attention and to gain profits.
In the empirical literatures that associate fantasy clothing with El Nino phenomenon is extremely rare to be found. Accordingly, it is necessary to conduct a research on the development of fantasy clothing with El Nino phenomenon as the source of idea with the objective to determine the development quality of fantasy clothing that concern on particular sub-themes as follows: 1. Does the developed creative fantasy fashion design suitable with the El Nino phenomenon? 2. What kind of clothing as the end result of fantasy outfit with an idea of El Nino phenomenon? 3. How the conditions and colors from El Nino phenomenon influence the clothing design? 4. What is the sewing technique in the innovation of El Nino characteristics for fantasy clothing design? 5. What type of accessories that match to support the appearance of fantasy clothing? Therefore, this study attempts to find out the development quality of fantasy clothing with the El Nino phenomenon as the source of idea. In order to achieve the study objective, research development approach in nature was applied with the role of the PPE model as a method to gain in depth explanation from data analysis. The remaining structure is organized as follow. The next section presents the theory development and literatures that discuss this particular discourse and also the terminology of fantasy design. Section three describes the methodology and data collection employed in this article to provide the empirical analysis in nature. Section four, five and six describe the results of analysis, discussion and conclusion as well as recommendation respectively in this study.

El Nino Phenomenon
One of the widely known natural phenomena in the world is El Nino. According to Astri Pratiwi, et. al. (2011: 113), El Nino and La Nina are abnormal weather phenomena occurs in the Ocean Pacific precisely at the equatorial area (the imaginary sense of El Nino is a large circle on earth (Big Indonesian Dictionary, 2008: 381). The El Nino can be recognized by the increasing temperatures in eastern and central Pacific Ocean, while La Nina is the opposite symptom. The impact of this El Nino phenomenon is a long period of summer season without rain which might ended in droughty and forest fires. Some countries that have been stroked by El Nino are Indonesia, Africa, Australia, Sri Lanka, Philippines, Southern United States, Argentina and Paraguay which happened in 1982/1993and 1997/1998(Laboratory of Watershed Management and Conservation of Forest, Soil and Water Resources, 2009. Basically, the characteristic of El Nino's impact to the environment is cracked soil and the leaves are fallen due to the very minimum of water supply. During this droughty condition, the natural color that stand out is bright brown with orange gradation to black.

Fantasy Clothing
In this modern era, aesthetic and "designed object" are a real component and become increasingly important in the marketing of all products, clothing or otherwise (Postrel, 2003). There has been a fairly fundamental change in society that buying a lot of cheap goods is more important than buying a few well-constructed items (Brosdahl, 2007;Hawley, 2008) so that fashion design is always somewhat vague in its definition of quality and superiority. Fashion design in the eyes of the community and society is often seen as ISSN: 00333077 5392 www.psychologyandeducation.net edicts of changing tastes that revolve around ordinary crafts. (Gregg-Duggan, 2006;Lipovetsky, 2006).
The fashion industry is currently in a state of abundance from the number of clothes produced each year to the number of students enrolling in fashion programs. The romance and mystique of the fashion industry have been amplified by a focus on fashion shows, designers as celebrities and the desire to manipulate one's appearance. This situation has led to the emergence of various clothing designs to fantasy designs with various unique themes that have never been existed before. Conceptual designer works in more multidimensional ways, and often don't keep up with popular trends. The designs are often centered on abstract ideas or emotions and sometimes the application of this approach is as extreme as conveying the message and executing it, much like an artist creates their work. The future of design relies on the design process to create new paradigms in design, taking advantage of higherorder concepts and thinking.
The definition of fantasy is varying and always associate with imagination or dream. Fantasy according to Jackson (1991) is a way to address and examine the real-world issues and provides an exploration of contemporary society, while Kellegahn (2002) defines fantasy as a release from habitual assumptions which provide a vantage point from new possibilities to be realized. Fantasy becomes attractive not only because it is entertaining but also it provides gateway for the audience to escape from reality for a moment and often provides therapy for the audience. Fantasy presents an unusual and seemingly unrecognizable perspective in a real-world context. Fantasy helps deepen our understanding of the real world and helps us understand the world and ourselves in the world.
With regard to fashion, fantasy and reality, Tseelon, (2013) describes the classical fashion theorists (for example Flügel 1930/1971, König 1973, Polhemus, 1994) that the idealist view supports fantasy which refers to the desired world, the idea of an ideal self, or an unfulfilled dream. A concrete example in fashion and fantasy is such bridal attire, which is traditionally constructed as a fantasy with a motif of "King and Queen for one day". Fantasy is not an object of desire but an arrangement. Its main function is as a desire arranger (Laplanch & Pontalis, 1968). In other words, fantasy provides the rationale for inherent desire. Thus, fashion has a non-verbal function of language.
Plenty of popular designer have been working on this fantasy clothing and exposed on the annual or regular fashion exhibitions such as Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, Valentino, Comme des Garçons, Rosie Assoulin, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Gucci. In particular, Jacobs combines the wearable equivalent of spun sugar down the runway in September for his Spring/Summer 2019 collection. The blazers were oversized, the ruffles were extra ruffly, the tights were sparkly, and the belts featured rosettes the size of watermelons. It was larger than life, Fantasy with a capital F, and it somehow seemed simultaneously apropos and out of place amid the collections that preceded it over the course of New York Fashion Week. 1 On the other hand, paper and journals that discuss the discourse of fantasy clothing and the development of its design is extremely rare therefore this study attempts to shed a light in this issue.

Instrument Development
In the empirical analysis stage, this study employs research and development method analysis (R&D). Product development is a process of well-planned activity with a carefully effort to make a continuous improvement in order to generate a better product thus gives more values, attractive and marketable. with the theme characteristics. e. Create an illustration design from those two selected sketch designs. f. Analyze the designs and produce the designs to ease the following stage. g. Choose a model figure to make the attire include all its accessories. h. Make the basic pattern and develop them according to the design and size of the model figure. i. Select the materials and calculate the prices for the two developed fantasy clothing products.

Production Stage (Production)
At this stage, every steps that planned in the first stage are applied for the attire production. The two selected designs are producing according to the selected theme. Several steps shall be done in this stage as follows: a. Cut the materials according to the pattern and seam as needed. a. Trace all the parts become a form of a complete outfit. b. Having the figure model to fit the origin attire.
c. Make a necessary fix if needed after the fitting session. d. Sewing all the parts to become a complete outfit.

Evaluation Stage
The third stage involves also several steps to run a test of the products and other accessories. This stage is carried out before conducting product trials. a. In running a test of the materials and its accessories, at least two experts are needed to enhance the quality of the fantasy clothing produces. There are several required criteria that must be possees by the experts as follow: 1). High competency and knowledges in term of fashion materials and other instruments. 2). Rich experiences in evaluating fashion products.
3). Possess certificate qualification in the assessment of fashion product. b. Two fashion experts also required to provide in depth evaluation of the fashion products. Couple of criteria that must be fulfilled are as follow: 1). High competency and knowledge in fashion world. 2). Possess certificate qualification in the assessment of fashion product.

Data collection method
This study uses qualitative descriptive analysis techniques. Qualitative descriptive analysis is an analytical technique to obtain data through a set of questions and analyze them in a descriptive percentage. The employed formula to calculate the percentage of each subject is as follows: N = Score X 100 % maximum score Moreover, with the purpose to calculate the whole subject in percentage output, the qualification range of accomplishment is applied according to the conversion table with a scale of 5 (Table 1):  Tegeh, et. al., 2014)

Results and Analysis
Having gone through several stages in the creation and development process of fantasy clothing, following are some figures of the final creation process with the theme of El Nino phenomenon as a source of inspiration and idea. These attires then evaluated by two experts in their field of fashion.  Table 2

. The Result of Product Expert Test
Source: Own data from assessment by the experts

Discussion
This study on the development of fantasy clothing with the El Nino phenomenon as the source of idea produces a brand new apparel with an unique idea. Accordingly, El Nino natural phenomenon is taken as the source of idea to create such unique and creative fashion product. The color and dry condition that stand out as the cause of a long dry season inspired the designer to develop a variation of the color tones as well as its motif. The result in this study supports the argument of Zizka Meitria (2017) and Sri Widarwati (1996: 58) who assert that source of idea allows someone to embody creativity and a precedent idea and concept. Moreover, she implies that in determining concept from the source of ideas do not need to adopt the characteristics as a whole, but could be only certain parts that are considered attractive and applicable for production, for instance the special characteristic of cracked soil in a droughty season is manifested to design motif with the air brush technique on the skirt (Dwiyono, 2016). Similarly, Nur Annisa, (2015) describes a design that also adopted ideas from the natural environment. A product designed by Arid and Barren was inspired from the sand in the desert and ended with a shape of long circular skirt with wrinkled details made by tile materials. The gradation motif was combined from dark and light brown colors and arranged like a wave. This apparel tittle is called A barren land in the desert.
As a complement to the fantasy outfit, headdresses or crowns, necklaces and supporting ornaments on the bustier and tail are created as the accessories in the color of dark brown inspired from the dry branches of plants. This is also support the argument of  that accessories on clothing provides a complement to the beauties of the user. In the context of fantasy clothing characteristics, the swells form with a quite large size is in line with the research conducted by Ayu Putu Rahayu Pertiwi Lestari (2018) about imaginary characteristics of clothing. The cracked soil motif is drawn using air brush technique at the tail of the attire and the application of twig ornaments provide a clearer picture to the person who sees the outfit.
On the evaluation stage, two experts in fashion industry have been employed in order to assess the quality of the produced fantasy clothing with the El Nino phenomenon as the source of inspiration. The results of the development of El Nino fantasy clothing are as follow: a. The suitability of the design with the source of idea is shown from the creativity of design through the unique characteristics. The outfit ended with combination of three colors, namely yellow, brown colors and gold, the shape of wrinkles that imitate a dry desert soil, the application of cracked soil motif at some parts of the outfit and the utilization of dry twig ornaments. b. The production output from the ideas development into a fantasy clothing that has never been created before thus makes this fashion outfit is very unique c. The selection of clothing materials and type of colors is very suitable therefore amplify the imitation of the El Nino characteristics. The special characteristics of this fantasy outfit are: a) white fabric with a tight braid for the skirt and modified with air brush paint, b) using tile material with combination of two colors to produce color gradations, c) twig ornaments from stiff wire, and d) A shiny and clear organza fabric. d. The stitch result is in accordance with the desired fantasy clothing characteristics that visible from the application of the right sewing techniques on each part of the attire. e. The employed accessories also greatly support the quality of the produced fantasy clothing, which appear from the application of several accessories such as: a) head ornament or a crown in the form of a dry tree branch, b) necklace in the shape of a dry tree branch, c) shoes with high heels in a color that matches with the cracked ground motif, d) dark brown shoelaces that creep or spread to the calves that imitate the dry branches Table 2 shows the results of quality assessment on the fantasy clothing product. Both experts assessed with perfect mark or 100%. Based on these calculations, it can be concluded that the quality of fantasy outfit with El Nino phenomenon as the source of idea is categorized as very good. Annisa Vatika Sari (2018) asserts that the evaluation scores above 89% is considered very good qualification.

Conclusion and Recommendation
The development of fantasy clothing with the idea adopted from the El Nino phenomenon is carried out and follow several stages in the PPE model in the making process, namely planning, production, and evaluation stages. At the first stage, the development of fantasy clothing is prepared or planned. Those things that are related in this planning activity are 1) Determine the idea to be realized become an outfit. 2) Create a collage design (mood board). 3) Sketch the design. From the sketches, two best designs were selected as consider the most suitable characteristics with the idea to be processed into design development and illustration.
The result shows that the quality of the produced fantasy clothing assessed by two experts in fashion is 100 percent. Both experts were given indicators to assess the quality of produced fantasy outfit as follow: a) the suitability of designs with the theme and the creativity as well as the innovation fof design, b) the motif and color selection on the materials of the outfit, c) the sewing technique, d) the accessories that support the look of fantasy outfit.
Furthermore, this article also provides a reference for future research in this particular theme or in order to enrich the literatures on creative design in general and fantasy outfit specifically. Firstly, this study can be used as learning material/module and enrich the library at the Ganesha University of Education library. Secondly, this paper can be used as a reference for another development of fantasy clothing especially for final year student at the Family Welfare Education Study Program, in addition that this research received a very good evaluation results from the fashion experts. Finally, this manuscript can be used as a comparison research to conduct similar research in order to improve particular knowledges especially in the fashion field.